Wine From The Heart

30. September 2012, from Redaktion
For Giovanni Bulgari, watching his wines go to market has been the fulfillment of a lifelong dream.
Autumn over the Bulgari vineyard.
Grapes being harvested.
Wines mature in barrels.
Watching the first shipment of PoderNuovo a Palazzone wines head to market was the fulfillment of a lifelong dream for the man behind its creation. That the man in question here happens to be Giovanni Bulgari – yes, that Bulgari – is merely a detail.  
 The boutique wine market is admittedly a difficult one, due in large part to its rapid growth in the last few years. The onslaught of cheaply produced vanity bottles stamped with famous names has meant that it has become increasingly difficult to know who or what to trust. Despite the loss of authenticity that seems to be running rampant, winemaking is a still a field that often attracts those who just genuinely love everything about it and wish nothing more than to participate as best they can. We had the opportunity to speak with Giovanni Bulgari – who is a perfect example of this type of enthusiasm – and it was nice to hear the voice of someone truly passionate about the art form he is involved in.   

Moving to the country, from gems to vines

 “I was actually involved in a relatively small part of Bulgari – gemstones”, says Giovanni Bulgari, who founded PoderNuovo a Palazzone with the help of his father Paulo. “Winemaking is something I’ve wanted to do since I was a child – to live on the land and work with it. There are actually many similarities with the way we worked with gemstones, working with the colors of nature. But whereas a gemstone takes thousands of years to make and you may think about it as long as you need, we get one chance per year to make wine from the grapes we harvest.” The PoderNuovo project has been in development since the 2-year-old vine seedlings were planted in 2007, with the first harvest and wine created in 2009.   

A love of wines

 “Oh, I love all my wines,” replies Giovanni Bulgari shyly when asked which is his favorite. He’s undeniably genuine about it. “I do especially enjoy the Sotiro. It’s a challenge, because it’s made completely from Sangiovese grapes that are usually blended with others, and it can be difficult to get the taste just right by itself. And I love the Cabernet Franc…” Wanting to learn as much as possible about the art and science of vine cultivation, the Bulgaris also enlisted the help of famous Italian oenologist Riccardo Cotarella. As it turns out, Cotarella happens to live right next door, “about 15 minutes away by car”, says Giovanni. “We spend a week together every month, talking about wines, tasting wines and deciding what we want, just studying all day.”   

Production and the future

 The Bulgaris shipped the first cases of PoderNuovo a Palazzone at the beginning of September. Plans are already in place to sell in Switzerland, Japan, the U.S.A, Indonesia, “and also in Europe,” says Giovanni a bit coyly.
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